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Text on the bottom left says "Creative Vacationing". Behind, downtown Stratford shops are illuminated with the early morning sunshine.

An insider's guide to exploring the countryside city artists call home.

By Jennifer Lee
Title image by Lucia Remedios. Story photography by Ted Belton

Published Spring 2024

 

The cultural vortex is a phenomenon accredited to cities famed for the creatives they attract and inspire, like Gertrude Stein's flock of writers in Paris during the 1920s, or New York eternally for artists of all mediums—or so anyone who has lived even the shortest of stints in the Empire State would happily argue

In Canada, localized cultural vortexes have given way to movements with global reverberations, including the famed Group of Seven, and sown the seeds for grassroots institutions with cult followings, like Arts & Crafts Productions, label to Broken Social Scene and Feist. And then there's our country's own perennial cultural vortex. A different look than the metropolises one might imagine, ours is rolled in with Ontario's picturesque farmlands: Stratford. Once a hub to railway lines dating back to the 1850s, this unassuming little city now draws theatre's brightest creative talents with the magnetic force that is the Stratford Festival.

Since its inception in 1952, the Stratford Festival has been the stomping ground to theatre greats and industry mavericks. At the behest of festival founder Tom Patterson (via an introduction from theatre pioneer Dora Mavor Moore), Tyrone Guthrie—widely considered among the leading directors in the industry at the time—trekked across the Atlantic to rural Ontario, where he helped imagine a stage that would become the stage in Canada.

Today, the city enveloping Patterson's theatres—four in total—breathes in rhythm with the vision for his festival, each thriving on the individual spirit of the artists it welcomes and the unique stories they bring with them to share with audiences from around the world.

When you enter a cultural vortex, you know it. The sensation of being surrounded by creativity and the warmth of the open invitation to explore everything inspiring and pouring out of this creativity is tangible. That's what it feels like to visit Stratford. Everywhere you look, you see someone reading, writing or practicing their lines. Here you sip on your morning coffee next to the writer of the play you watched the evening before. Here you take home jewellery from one of the Festival's theatre shops made by the actor who transfixed you with their performance. Here you enjoy a show at the Avon theatre and cross the street for a chilled treat at a gelato shop operated by the partner of one of the creative minds behind the Festival's Meighen Forum.

Stay a day, stay a week—any amount of time in the city will be long enough to feel the beautifully inspiring pull of the artists shaping this epicentre for world-class theatre. As for how to get the full effect—here's an insider's guide to an artist's Stratford.

 

MORNING MEDITATION

FROM DROWSY TO CURIOUS

 

A Stratford morning is accompanied by a grade of quiet synonymous with shimmering rivers speckled with swans. It also happens to offer stellar café options to rival the most oat-milk-latte-filled metropolises that Instagram can rank.

The crux of coffee shops with exceptional brew and quality people watching are on Ontario St., or just off it: see Balzac's (a hometown roaster with deep coast-to-coast appeal), The Ashborne Cafe, formally Edison's Cafe (where no one leaves without baked goods) and Revel (most likely to spot an actor getting their morning fuel).

Off in a different direction, away from the core, is another spot for breakfast fare as cute as its Tropical Bowl (a yogurt parfait) is delicious. Literally underground, Brch & Wyn is a basement coffee shop and bar with round-the-clock offerings. The morning menu here is chock-a-block with sweet and savoury accompaniments for coffee or tea. The homemade pastries are a fine way to satiate a sweet tooth, while the aforementioned yogurt parfait is a healthy morning dessert plated, seemingly special, for your feed. Come back in the evening for wine and charcuterie.

Should caffeine not be your cup of tea, opt for Bowl Bar instead, where smoothies are a protein-rich delight. For extra convenience, pop by The Little Green Grocery for a yogi's breakfast: bottles of pressed juice and seed-filled vegan energy bars.

Once breakfast is in hand, take it for a walk along the Avon River. Find the La Cage aux Folles album on Spotify and start your day off with a glamorous kick of self-affirmation. Wander the river's path and soak in sights, including the Tom Patterson Theatre. The building's handsome exterior is just one of the reasons this award-winning building has graced the pages of magazines, including Architectural Digest. Pro tip: the gardens here are worth a wander for anyone looking to take a selfie with envious "Where are you?!" generating comment power.

 

AFTERNOON

FROM LUNCH TO SIESTA

 

After catching your photo op, break for a light lunch at the Tom Patterson Theatre Café. Sit outdoors and continue enjoying the tranquil beauty of the Avon River and its winged wildlife. Try the scones, and don't be surprised if a goose crosses the road for a visit!

After clearing your plate, keep walking a few feet and you'll hit the Festival Theatre, where a matinée performance of Romeo and Juliet or Something Rotten! calls your name. For you Shakespeare lovers: should catharsis be what you seek, the former will fill and empty your heart in a single sitting. But should laughter be the order of the day, director Donna Feore's latest musical keeps the playwright top of mind without a murmur of iambic pentameter, as it comedically imagines the conception of the musical during the Bard's heyday.

This theatre also boasts its own shop, where 2024 season souvenirs, theatre trinkets and one-of-a-kind jewellery by Festival artists are ready to be wrapped up and taken home. Look out for the beautiful, handcrafted beadwork of Tara Sky, or, as this year's audiences of Wendy and Peter Pan will know her, Tiger Lily.

Walk back toward the centre of town for more shopping. Find a trove of accessories at Harmony Jewelry & Co., a trendy boutique with a collection of cozy crewnecks, featuring a close alternative to thrifting with apparel here giving Northern Reflections charm, like its selection of Canadian national parks sweatshirts and local souvenir sweatshirts designed to pair smartly with mom jeans. For more rugged looks, try The Green Room, where gorpcore needs are well served by way of waterproof gear and utilitarian boots, in addition to a plethora of Pendleton goodies. Stop by the nearby MacLeods Scottish Shop next to grab the perfect fair-isle cardigan or cable-knit sweater to complete your look. The shop's selection of wooly jumpers rivals the runway's latest take on these enduring classics, translating into you being as likely to find a top to pair with a maxi skirt and heels as you are to pick up something to layer under that new raincoat you bought at The Green Room.

For homebodies, Stratford has a bounty of shops with stock that would make Toronto's One-of-a-Kind Show turn green with jealousy. Bradshaws is a strong choice for anyone in the market for kitchen outfitting, meaning no Food Network viewer will walk out of this shop empty-handed.

Then there's Wills & Prior, a Magnolia Home fan's dream. Everything in this store makes you want to empty your house, paint it whatever Benjamin Moore's Colour of the Year is and start decorating from scratch with everything on the floors and shelves of this store. It's no wonder this shop is a favourite among Festival artists looking to make homes out of their Stratford pads. Don't be surprised if you end up discussing candle scents with the actor you applauded only a few hours earlier.

Before you begin your night, squeeze in a nap. Stratford has plenty of unique accommodations to complement your stay in the countryside. The Yellow Room at Three Houses Inn has Downton Abbey-esque charm (after all, this is the inn where Maggie Smith stays when in town), while Hotel Julie is straight out of Elle Decor with its cosmopolitan flair.

 

EVENING

FROM DUSK TO MOONLIGHT

 

As the sun sinks, the city's streets crowd with theatregoers heading to their pre-show dinner. Even if you walked around the river in the morning, the refreshing exhale of a short repeat putter is worth a detour before sitting down to your evening meal.

Or, skip traditional dining altogether and go al fresco with takeout and a bottle of wine from a local restaurant. With designated spots for outdoor eating and drinking, including Market Square and the picturesque Tom Patterson Island (twinkle lights galore!), you can live out a European-inspired picnic daydream. This style of dining is also translatable into a family-friendly meal made great by having room to run before heading to see Wendy and Peter Pan with the kids

For a sit-down meal, the choices in town are varied and each uniquely delectable. Bluebird Restaurant & Bar is a recent addition to the scene, headed by husband-wife duo Aaron and Bronwyn Linley—a pair quintessential to Stratford's culinary scene. With close ties to the Stratford Chefs School (Aaron was a chef instructor) and having owned another restaurant and a gourmet market in town previously, their newest spot—a bistro influenced by international flavours—is packed with locals and in-the-know tourists. Reservations here are a must... and so is the chicken 'Naka' style with special sauce.

If looking to go totally off the beaten path come mealtime, go in the direction of one of Stratford's multiple culinary trails (available for purchase at the Destination Stratford office in town) and fill up on whatever your personal food staple may be. Before choosing between Bacon and Ale or Chocolate trails, check closing times of participating locations to avoid being left with a grumbling tummy. With five stops on the first self-guided trail and six on the latter cocoa-themed one, this variation on dinner is something of a method-viewing experience for patrons heading to an evening performance of London Assurance, a play in which indulgence is the dish du jour.

For post-show reverie, theatregoers will be happy to find that tranquil as Stratford's Avon River may colour it, this ain't no sleepy town. Live like a local and stop in at The Relic Lobby Bar for an expertly mixed cocktail. Between the warm staff, cozy atmosphere and effortless cool of the bar, first-time visitors are sure to become return customers one El Presidente (white rum, orange curaçao, French dry vermouth and grenadine) in.

When the moon rises over the city, theatres empty as bars fill—first with patrons thirsty for conversation about the production they just watched and later with actors, ready to unwind after their show. Together—again—worlds meld, audiences and actors share a space, and that feeling of being immersed in creativity pulses through the air. Stratford Festival Swan icon